A Different Albufeira

We recently bought a new camper—a Bavaria, in the pleasantly compact 5.4-metre size—which we christened Rocinante, inspired by John Steinbeck's Travels with Charley. I had just read the book for the second time, this time in Portuguese, and once again couldn't put it down.

The book tells the story of the Nobel Prize-winning author's road trip across the United States in 1960, travelling with his dog Charley in a campervan. Along the way, Steinbeck reflects on the rapid social changes taking place in America and searches for the true identity of the modern American. He named his camper Rocinante, after Don Quixote's famous horse.

I've promised my wife Janine that Rocinante will take us on wine and architecture trips. We'll start here in the Algarve, naturally using Arthur van Amerongen and Reggie Smith's The Great Algarve Wine Guide as our trusted companion. After our first wine trip—organised by Janine—to Quinta do Canhoto near Silves, it's now my turn to choose a destination, one that combines our two great passions: wine and architecture.

"Old" Albufeira Photo: Artur Pastor

Mention the name Albufeira in the Algarve and many people immediately roll their eyes. Once a charming fishing village, it has become synonymous with the excesses of mass tourism on the western Algarve, conjuring images of drunken British tourists wandering around shirtless and partying Dutch students taking over the streets.

But there is another Albufeira. Away from The Strip and the crowded Old Town, you'll find places that reveal a far more surprising side of the city. Our first stop lies just a few kilometres outside Albufeira.

Quinta do Canhoto

Just north of Albufeira lies this family-owned winery. As we drive our camper, with our dog Sammie on board, along a dusty country road lined with old agricultural machinery, we arrive at the estate and immediately spot the reception building on our left. The modern building blends beautifully into the landscape. Built into a gentle hillside, it offers distant views towards the sea. Visitors can spend the night here with their camper if they purchase a wine package. Guided tours are available, ending with a wine tasting.

Everything at Quinta do Canhoto is exceptionally well organised. The name means "The Left-Handed Farm," referring to the previous owner of the property, who happened to be a left-handed farmer. When the father of the current owners bought the estate in 1958, he planted four red grape varieties—Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet—and two white varieties: Arinto and Antão Vaz.

Janine decides to join the guided tour as well as the wine tasting. I opt for the tasting only.

Her tour runs a little longer than expected, as the other visitors—most of whom arrive in minibuses—trickle in over time. Eventually, a group of about thirty people gathers around the large tables in the visitors' centre, where the tasting glasses are already waiting. Sammie and I join them there.

You can immediately see that the entire complex has been designed with great care and thoughtfully integrated into the landscape. The winery itself lies below, while beside it stretches a green oasis of mature trees and even a small pond. After the tour, Janine tells me that she spoke with Joana Fernandes, the daughter of one of the owners. Not only is she the estate's oenologist—she also designed the building as its architect.

She created a winery that makes optimal use of the local climate and natural conditions to maximise indoor comfort while minimising energy consumption, all without relying on heavy technical installations or air conditioning. And she succeeded remarkably well. Almost ninety percent of the building is buried below ground level, allowing the surrounding earth to provide natural thermal stability. The building's orientation and its distinctive saw-tooth roof—with north-facing skylights—greatly reduce direct solar gain, significantly lowering the need for mechanical cooling during the winemaking process.

For this design, Joana received an Honourable Mention at the 2022 Algarve Architecture Prize, awarded by the Portuguese Order of Architects. Just as much attention has been given to the outdoor spaces. Shaded seating areas beneath the mature trees surround a large timber terrace furnished with comfortable lounge seating. A small wing houses an outdoor bar, while nearby are two restrooms overlooking the lawn, the old trees and the reed-fringed pond.

It is a wonderful place to spend the evening. With Rocinante parked at the edge of the vineyard, we look out across the rolling landscape. In the distance stands an old farmhouse with two round towers, and beyond it the sea sparkles in the fading light. We pour ourselves one final glass of wine as the sun slowly disappears below the horizon and the rising moon glows a deep orange.

Tomorrow we'll continue our architectural journey on the outskirts of Albufeira. Two remarkable projects are still on my list: the colourful postmodern marina designed by Tomás Taveira, and the beautiful modernist Hotel Balaia Mar (1965–1967), designed by Conceição Silva, with whom Taveira worked at the beginning of his career.

But those stories are for another day. For now, here are a few photographs as a preview.

Albufeira Marina by architect Tomás Taveira

Hotel Balaia Mar (1960s), designed by architect Conceição Silva

Perhaps this is exactly what John Steinbeck meant: travelling doesn't have to take you far. Sometimes a short journey from Olhão to Albufeira is enough to discover an entirely different world.